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Discussion Starter #1
Today I started my install of a 3 inch body lift on the ram.
Didn't get quite done, started at 12:30 and ran out of sunlight at 7 pm
Still have to install the front bumper and then put the wheel well liner back in on the drivers side and shes all done.
Everything installs easy, my only gripe is that I have 5 inch tips, and they no longer can sit up flush with the bumper because of the adapter bracket for the bumper, it gets in the way a little.

I'll post pics tomorrow when I get it all done
 

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Anxious to see pictures
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Holy heck monkey, that looks dope. What does it look like in off road mode ?!
Even more bad ass! Tires still rub tho in normal mode. I think they rub worse actually.
Theres that little piece of the fender liner that sticks out at the bottom, with metal behind it so you cant even cut it. Well now that the truck is lifted, that piece is now at the perfect height to catch the tire when turning.
Used to rub a little at full lock only to the right, now it rubs half way left and right. :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So I'll do a little write up about putting a 3 inch body lift on a ram rebel, or on an air ride ram in general.
I'll do bullets to make it easy

Everything in the box is more than what you'll need.
Upper cowl for rad, grille, and front bumper comes off.
The two inner fender liners attaching to the bumper and frame come off, and don't exactly go in nicely after. (frame moves up and doesn't mount to frame anymore)
The drivers side fender liner should be removed to make it easier to get at the ABS module and the steering shaft.
I did not install the steering shaft extension adapter because I was unable to separate the shaft.
The shifter cable does not need to be removed from the brake line, it has plenty of movement. (2015 + turn dial shifter)
I removed the 3 torx bolts from my fuel filler neck and also removed the cap.
Get under the truck and there is a ground coming from the fuel filler neck, remove that from the frame.
Fuel filler neck will go back on no prob, no extension needed.
When putting the front bumper on, you'll need to cut out part of the inner bracket mounted to the bumper because it will fit on the bolt head, and cut enough off so it doesn't sit on the washer either.
Put all 3 nuts on each side, then you can lay on the ground and push up and one of them is accessible with an air impact.
Don't push the bumper up all the way or the grille will not go in, drop it down 2-3 mm.
Put a few laters of masking tape on the edge of your plastic piece under the headlight, I scuffed mine up installing the bumper.
The new bracket goes behind the frame horn, and there is an annoying tab sticking back. Perhaps you can grind it off but I hammered mine flat, didn't go quite flat tho.
Pretty sure thats why the top edge of my bumper did not line up with the fender, but I put one of those super fat washers on the top bumper bolt to bring it out, and it lined up perfect.
Make sure you do not have anything in your box when trying to jack it up. I did not look, and it turns out I still had 5 patio stones in there.
For the Rebel (crew cab) there are only 6 bolts total securing the box. Two behind the wheel, and one in front.
One in front is easy to find, and the two behind are through the frame, one being through your hitch.
Because of the brackets for the rear bumper, 5 inch tail pipes will no longer sit flush inside the bumper as you can see from my photos above.
It is called for cutting the bumper to fit the bracket, I did not do this.
One pro to cutting the bumper, stronger mounting bracket. Con: cut bumper.
I decided to trim the bracket, but it weakens the support i suppose. ( photo included)
When removing the rear bumper, I had difficulty getting it to come off, this is due to the center bumper ball mount. Remove the cap and lift up slightly when pulling back.
Unbolting the spare tire winch is a pain, and you probably will not get it to come out of place, but don't bother trying just leave it there till you jack up the truck.
Bolt the bracket to the winch first then the bracket to the truck.
For the front bumper, the instructions confused me a bit about what to drill. You need to drill a 1/2 inch hole into the frame horn, not the bumper or the bracket.
One of the bolts in the bumper will go through it so make sure when the bracket is in place, the hole is still clear. (bracket goes behind)
Took me from 1 PM sunday- 7 PM sunday, then another hour and a half on monday.
I spent about an hour searching for the 7th and 8th bolt in the box, because when I lifted it, it flexed a little. (due to 5 patio stones)
Order the gap guards!
 

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That looks awesome. I'm trying to decide if I want to just body lift it or suspension lift my truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Suspension lift is the way to go, but this cost me like 600 and a day's work. Suspension one would cost me 3500 (cad) and probably a day or two of shop labour at 90$ an hour so for 1/8th the cost I did a body lift
 

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How much lift do you have total now? Did you figure out the rubbing issue? I am looking at down this to mine but i am going to try and stuff 37's under it.
 

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Sorry, never understood why anyone would go with a body lift, looks crappy. Suspension lift yes, body lift, no thanks. To each their own.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sorry, never understood why anyone would go with a body lift, looks crappy. Suspension lift yes, body lift, no thanks. To each their own.
I don't care for the look, when you look at the hitch or inside the wheel wells. BUT, it would cost me about 6-7,000 canadian to do a suspension lift, or 600 for the body
 

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Hey Pitajr, I just got this done on my black Rebel as well. How did you get the exhaust to lift up and match the cutouts? Mine is sitting 3" below the cutouts, obviously.
THanks,
 
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