So I'll do a little write up about putting a 3 inch body lift on a ram rebel, or on an air ride ram in general.
I'll do bullets to make it easy
Everything in the box is more than what you'll need.
Upper cowl for rad, grille, and front bumper comes off.
The two inner fender liners attaching to the bumper and frame come off, and don't exactly go in nicely after. (frame moves up and doesn't mount to frame anymore)
The drivers side fender liner should be removed to make it easier to get at the ABS module and the steering shaft.
I did not install the steering shaft extension adapter because I was unable to separate the shaft.
The shifter cable does not need to be removed from the brake line, it has plenty of movement. (2015 + turn dial shifter)
I removed the 3 torx bolts from my fuel filler neck and also removed the cap.
Get under the truck and there is a ground coming from the fuel filler neck, remove that from the frame.
Fuel filler neck will go back on no prob, no extension needed.
When putting the front bumper on, you'll need to cut out part of the inner bracket mounted to the bumper because it will fit on the bolt head, and cut enough off so it doesn't sit on the washer either.
Put all 3 nuts on each side, then you can lay on the ground and push up and one of them is accessible with an air impact.
Don't push the bumper up all the way or the grille will not go in, drop it down 2-3 mm.
Put a few laters of masking tape on the edge of your plastic piece under the headlight, I scuffed mine up installing the bumper.
The new bracket goes behind the frame horn, and there is an annoying tab sticking back. Perhaps you can grind it off but I hammered mine flat, didn't go quite flat tho.
Pretty sure thats why the top edge of my bumper did not line up with the fender, but I put one of those super fat washers on the top bumper bolt to bring it out, and it lined up perfect.
Make sure you do not have anything in your box when trying to jack it up. I did not look, and it turns out I still had 5 patio stones in there.
For the Rebel (crew cab) there are only 6 bolts total securing the box. Two behind the wheel, and one in front.
One in front is easy to find, and the two behind are through the frame, one being through your hitch.
Because of the brackets for the rear bumper, 5 inch tail pipes will no longer sit flush inside the bumper as you can see from my photos above.
It is called for cutting the bumper to fit the bracket, I did not do this.
One pro to cutting the bumper, stronger mounting bracket. Con: cut bumper.
I decided to trim the bracket, but it weakens the support i suppose. ( photo included)
When removing the rear bumper, I had difficulty getting it to come off, this is due to the center bumper ball mount. Remove the cap and lift up slightly when pulling back.
Unbolting the spare tire winch is a pain, and you probably will not get it to come out of place, but don't bother trying just leave it there till you jack up the truck.
Bolt the bracket to the winch first then the bracket to the truck.
For the front bumper, the instructions confused me a bit about what to drill. You need to drill a 1/2 inch hole into the frame horn, not the bumper or the bracket.
One of the bolts in the bumper will go through it so make sure when the bracket is in place, the hole is still clear. (bracket goes behind)
Took me from 1 PM sunday- 7 PM sunday, then another hour and a half on monday.
I spent about an hour searching for the 7th and 8th bolt in the box, because when I lifted it, it flexed a little. (due to 5 patio stones)
Order the gap guards!
