I realize this may seem like a silly topic to some for being a truck owner, however I drive 30k miles a year so it's semi important to me. I traded up my Jeep Cherokee to the 2016 Rebel with 5.7 Hemi. I needed more oompf to tow a new boat I purchased. Towing is a once in a while thing however I need to be able to do it when I need to be able to do it. 99% of my driving is on I75 in Florida. Super flat and perfect climate. I expect to get whatever the sticker says for hwy MPG in these conditions. Example, my Jeep Cheroke Trailhawk with the Tow and Offroad package was rated at 24mpg hwy and I actually got around 25/26. My overall average MPG was 24 just to give a true picture of my driving habbits. I just hit 1,240 miles on the Rebel and I'm aware that there's a 2,000 break in period. Currently I am seeing around 16 MPG hwy on my normal commute which is far short from the low 20s that the dealer promised I would get. I'm using cruise control between 70-75 mph and always using a light foot when not on cruise to satisfy the what the dealer told me is the computers learning period for my driving habbits. Unless there is a drastic change in this break in period I don't see how I'm going to magically gain another 5 or more mpg in 800 miles. With the current cost of fuel and the amount of millage I drive, I calculated this to be about a $60 difference per month from what I'm getting mpg vrs what I was told I would get.
That all being said to lay the background picture, has anyone come across any tips or tricks to improve the mpg on these things? I feel like maybe the cylinder deactivation is not really working under cruise and light load situations. At the above mentioned cruising speeds I'm right around or just under 2k rpm. The dealer told me cylinder deactivation should happen below 2,500 rpm under light loads. Is there maybe a tune or somethign I can do to fix this?
That all being said to lay the background picture, has anyone come across any tips or tricks to improve the mpg on these things? I feel like maybe the cylinder deactivation is not really working under cruise and light load situations. At the above mentioned cruising speeds I'm right around or just under 2k rpm. The dealer told me cylinder deactivation should happen below 2,500 rpm under light loads. Is there maybe a tune or somethign I can do to fix this?