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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone get this issue taken care of yet? Truck has been sitting in the garage for the last 1.5 days and still condensation on both headlights where the driver side is getting worse than it was.

I am hoping their is a fix besides replacement as I do not want the dealer putting in new lights with the chrome bezels.

Inputs?
 
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I'm curious about a fix too. I had read this was an issue, but didn't experience it until a few days ago. Mine had just a little bit in the corners of each light.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm curious about a fix too. I had read this was an issue, but didn't experience it until a few days ago. Mine had just a little bit in the corners of each light.

That's how mine started, now constant 25% condensation on the bottom quarter of the lights at all times, up to 50% when driving or wet conditions.

If it gets absurd and the dealer will not do anything I will just get a set of aftermarket lights.
 

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i would bake it in the oven... like people do when they mod the headlights, but at a very low heat for a while, should dry it right out.
 

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There are some vents in the back of the headlight unit. They're covered by semi-soft orange caps. There is a TSB out on the 2013 Chrysler 300 projectors - sometimes they come out of the factory with the cap pushed on a little too much. It's an easy fix once the headlights are out. It's covered in this video, starting at 6:30 and running to 8:00.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ng5S8WmY6pQ

I found this discussed in ramforumz.com in this thread http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=189771

As you can see, one guy tried the fix and found the caps were fine, so he put sealant all around the headlight housing where it was already supposed to be sealed, and that fixed his problem.

Maybe this will help.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
There are some vents in the back of the headlight unit. They're covered by semi-soft orange caps. There is a TSB out on the 2013 Chrysler 300 projectors - sometimes they come out of the factory with the cap pushed on a little too much. It's an easy fix once the headlights are out. It's covered in this video, starting at 6:30 and running to 8:00.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ng5S8WmY6pQ

I found this discussed in ramforumz.com in this thread http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=189771

As you can see, one guy tried the fix and found the caps were fine, so he put sealant all around the headlight housing where it was already supposed to be sealed, and that fixed his problem.

Maybe this will help.
Thanks for this, I will be trying this tonight. Ill pull the lights out abd bring them into the house with the bulbs out, maybe put them in the oven at 120 for an hour or two to dry them out fully first then seal them and check the caps. Also figure it would be a good idea to seal the service cap and the HID grommets as well. Hope this fixes the issue will keep everyone posted.
 

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Heating in the oven really doesn't work unless you've opened up the unit completely. The moisture in it just gets warm, evaporates inside the unit, and then condenses later, possibly in areas where you can't see it. It's actually better to just move a lot of air through it. You can use an air compressor if it has a moisture trap, or a small fan aimed into it. Or dry air like nitrogen if you have a source. You can also use a vacuum cleaner against one of the vents or bulb holes, forcing air to be sucked into the others. This works best on a low setting or with a small cleaner like a dustbuster that doesn't generate too much vacuum, so it won't overheat itself. I have one of those small clip-on fans at home that works fine for stuff like this, and I've used a house vacuum on very low settings more than once. Any of these options usually work better and faster than an oven.

Also if you really want to use your oven, I recommend you not let it cool off in the oven. If you have a gas oven, that's moist air - when gas burns it creates water and CO2, meaning even more moisture in the oven. All that will do is heat up what air is in the unit, causing it to expand and some of it will come out of the vents, and as it cools it will suck the moist air back into it. Even if it's electric, some of that water that evaporated out will get sucked back into it as it cools.

And be sure to put at least one heat shield if not 2 between the oven heat source and the unit. If it's gas, the vents that let the hot air up from around the burners are letting in much hotter air than what the oven's average temp will be. If it's electric, direct heat radiation from the elements can be up to 450-500 degrees.
 

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If you do take the housings off your truck and do this, it would be cool to get some measurements. I haven't found anywhere yet for the amount of clearance behind the bulb mounts, between them and the housing backplate.

There are a lot of styles of alternative LED bulbs, up to 4800 lumens each now, with varying sized heatsinks and bulb bases. Some of these may work fine in the housings, but I can't find published info on the clearance. Usually people are posting pictures after they've completed their upgrade project, too late to ask for a measurement.

It's 5-10 degrees outside the last week or two and my Rebel doesn't fit in my garage where I can work on it inside, so I won't be removing my headlights to see for myself for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ill be pulling them in a couple hours and bringing them into the house, let me know what you need and I can snap them for you.
 

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Just the clearance between the mounting plate (where the bulb flange twists into the socket) and the backplate, which is the part you have to remove to get to the bulbs.

That should tell us the maximum size of the heat sinks or rear housing on any bulb we might consider.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just the clearance between the mounting plate (where the bulb flange twists into the socket) and the backplate, which is the part you have to remove to get to the bulbs.

That should tell us the maximum size of the heat sinks or rear housing on any bulb we might consider.

Thanks!
Hi beam or Low? Or Both?
 

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Can't hurt to have both. Someone might benefit from it. I was specifically looking for low beams because that's the first thing everyone wants to change. But some people are changing out high beams, too.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Headlights are sealed, and I will be installing them on lunch today will provide pictures and measurements then. Low beam I cant imagine you have more than .5-.75" which is why they use the 90 degree bulbs as its pretty much flush with the back panel.

Ill update in a couple hours.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Got some rough cut measurements for you.

Hi Beam-1.75" depth, but the contour is is small
Lo Beam - .5" depth, only on the housing plate, none available in the headlight itself



 

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Thanks. Got me wondering if the backplate could be "extended" - either by making a deeper backplate, or fabricating an extension ring to fit it. But there might not be enough space behind the headlight where it sits in the truck itself.

I've found several models and styles of 4500 lumen LED bulbs (9000 lumens for a pair) that are HIR2 / 9012 replacements. Most of them have fans, or otherwise just stick out too far. But one has the braid heat sinks. Sadly, the back end projects 27mm beyond the mounting ring flange. That's just over an inch. Plus the braids on that model come straight out of the back, not the side as we've seen in other lower-powered lights. So that would increase the depth needed by another few mm.

The 4500 lumen bulbs run at 40 watts each. Equivalent HID bulbs (4300 lumens) require 55W. That's what the Enlight kits are, for example.

On the plus side, that lamp is a very narrow contour and would probably work great in the high beams. Here's a link to it through Alibaba, but should eventually find a North American distributor for it.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/high-power-super-bright-xhp-50-80w-9600-lumen-car-LED-headlight-bulbs-9012-with-CE/32535512934.html?spm=2114.40010408.3.7.bvbElj
 

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You don't need to bake them at all. All you have to do is take the headlights out of the truck and pull the vent caps off and push them back down. They are usually pushed down from the factory too hard and they "seal" the headlight too much not allowing the correct ventilation. Mine were fogging up really bad when I first got it and I did that and they haven't fogged up once since than.
 
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