Ram Rebel Forum banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
anyone know if it is possible to adjust settings (or disable) the automatic lowering to the 'normal' ride height when the vehicle is traveling 25+ mph? is it possible to allow the suspension to ride at 'off road' height at faster speeds?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
anyone know if it is possible to adjust settings (or disable) the automatic lowering to the 'normal' ride height when the vehicle is traveling 25+ mph? is it possible to allow the suspension to ride at 'off road' height at faster speeds?
Commonly asked question, No one has figured it out yet. Research link modification on this site and you will find an easy way of lifting the truck and tricking the system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Short answer is no. Easiest way to achieve what you want is to change the lift links to fool the sensors in to thinking the truck is lower than it really is and then it will move all of your modes up higher, the new Normal would be close to previous off road (although you can adjust exactly where you want it by adjusting the length of the links). There are several threads on here already , this one is the one I used for info, it shows both solutions with homemade devices like what Roomraider used and pre fabbed solutions like what I used. Both work. I am still modifying my lengths to find a happy point of maximum lift without disrupting the ride too much.

http://www.ramrebelforum.com/forum/tires-wheels-suspension/4697-air-suspension-headaches.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
660 Posts
No, the off-road height still gets another inch, but then you're nearer to the limits of the shocks. Makes for a very rough ride according to guys that have tried and commented on it. It's the reason I don't want to do it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Been running about 1 inch higher ( 1 1/2 in the rear) for a week now. No discernible difference in ride compared to previous Normal while in Normal, but as John mentions above here, noticeably bad ride in Off Road mode now. So the benefit of this is you ride in what used to be Off Road mode for most driving , can put it in Off Road mode for show, but probably not going off road with it like that since it would be very rough on a bumpy road. In fact I will probably run in Aero when on logging/back country roads anyway to get the smoothest ride over the bumps unless I need clearance like in cross ditches and then I will use the Off Road mode....maybe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
The rougher ride is only in Off Road mode, which I dont use. No trade off. Lifts for these are close $1000/inch for the BDS or Coil over, this is a cheap inch( really cheap if you do it Room raiders method), just enough to make room for 35's comfortably, which is all I want, I am not looking for a really high lifted truck. I know you can run some 35's on here without that inch. If I dont like this, then it takes 5 minutes to pull it out and return to stock, testing it out for a few weeks before I go in for the alignment and decide to keep them in for a while. Also, I did haul my boat yesterday like this, no issues, felt exactly the same as with OEM links.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
I noticed something when i towed a lightweight U- HAUL TRAILER. I HAD THE setting in normal mode and the trailer had surge brakes, not electric. Here in NEVADA, Semi trucks and vehicles towing trailers can travel at any posted speed limit, i was cruising in a 70 mph section of freeway and noticed that even though i had the truck set in the NORMAL mode, at 65 mph, the truck would usually change from NORMAL TO AREO mode once the speed reaches 62 mph, but it never changed from NORMAL TO AREO ! I think i fiqured out why, even though it was a light trailer, stopping is still an issue so before i drove off i activated the trucks TOW- HAUL MODE. I THINK THAT WHEN THE TRUCK IS SET TO TOW- HAUL MODE it disables the automatic tranny so the truck stays IN the mode you chose in the first place. I am not sure of this but after returning the trailer, i drove in the regular normal mode and as soon as i reached 62 mph, she automatically changed to areo, so the TOW - HAUL MODE might just keep the truck where you want it without having to worry that the truck is going to lower from where you set it and possibly dragging you hitch chains along the hiway. I have also noticed that i cant seem to find the ECO LIGHT ON MY DASH. I SEE here where other ownes have it on their trucks instrument cluster. I have about 1200 miles so far.
Bert
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
660 Posts
Yep, that's documented right in your owner's manual. It doesn't disable the transmission, though. It just changes the computer settings that control shift timing and Aero mode.

The ECO light is low left on your instrument panel. A lot of guys, like me, have found that it's disabled by default. More likely by sales guys checking things out. It's in the Uconnect menu settings, center console.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I know this is probably a more odd question, but are there any suggestions for adjusting ride height to be LOWER. I do a lot of highway driving and wouldnt mind a lower ride. It would be pretty cool if the ENTRY height could be my AERO height for better mpg and performance handling on some roads while being able to be at full height when in the field.

Any input?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
560 Posts
I know this is probably a more odd question, but are there any suggestions for adjusting ride height to be LOWER. I do a lot of highway driving and wouldnt mind a lower ride. It would be pretty cool if the ENTRY height could be my AERO height for better mpg and performance handling on some roads while being able to be at full height when in the field.

Any input?
You could easily lower the vehicle by either buying or making your own adjustable air suspension sensor links. I made some to lift my vehicle so lowering your vehicle can be achieved. Don't know what the ride quality would be like as I don't think I have heard of anyone doing this on a Ram yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
I know this is probably a more odd question, but are there any suggestions for adjusting ride height to be LOWER. I do a lot of highway driving and wouldnt mind a lower ride. It would be pretty cool if the ENTRY height could be my AERO height for better mpg and performance handling on some roads while being able to be at full height when in the field.

Any input?


Driving on highway in Entry/Exit mode will be rough. It basically sits on the bump stops.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Going lower than Entry / Exit setting

My garage door is really short! Has anyone "hacked" the air suspension so that entry / exit is the lowest possible. I just need an inch or so.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
The easiest way to disable your air suspension is to remove the fuse. It will give you an error message but it'll stay at which ever position you keep it at.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
I just read the 11 pages on the Air suspension headaches link posted above. There appear to be a custom set already made for roughly $300. Then there is the $.99 cent version which is basically plastic tubing drilled to size or the one I would l feel more comfortable with which is a build your own kit from say a Grainger store. There was a link in the lost thread to a grainger part number. It's this one but that's only for the 8MM (Which is needed for all years, but 10MM is also needed for 16 and newer versions).
That all being said I would like to make my own so what I would like is that whoever has built a complete front and rear Link kit from either Grainger/Ebay etc could post the links to every part needed.
I think this would work: Can someone that has done this let me know if these are right
10mm Ball/Socket 15mm M5 Thread

8mm Ball Socket 22mm M5 Thread


Do I need 4" Threaded rod or how long does it need to be?
Unfortunately I don't have a high enough post count to be able to have links here. Those are from grainger
Anything else I need to make my own links
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Awesome news on the Tow Haul mode. Just bought a 2018 last night and the automatic change was annoying me. I set it off in UConnect Settings, but once turned off and then on again, reverted. Going to try this trick next. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Awesome news on the Tow Haul mode. Just bought a 2018 last night and the automatic change was annoying me. I set it off in UConnect Settings, but once turned off and then on again, reverted. Going to try this trick next. Thanks!

That's odd. I turned off aero mode in the UConnect settings a few months ago, and it's stayed in normal mode ever since then. Sounds like they may have changed something in the 2018 models.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
The rougher ride is only in Off Road mode, which I dont use. No trade off. Lifts for these are close $1000/inch for the BDS or Coil over, this is a cheap inch( really cheap if you do it Room raiders method), just enough to make room for 35's comfortably, which is all I want, I am not looking for a really high lifted truck. I know you can run some 35's on here without that inch. If I dont like this, then it takes 5 minutes to pull it out and return to stock, testing it out for a few weeks before I go in for the alignment and decide to keep them in for a while. Also, I did haul my boat yesterday like this, no issues, felt exactly the same as with OEM links.
So that begs the question...what 35s are good to go without needing to go the override route? Seems like I remember one owner here who put the new Toyos on his Reb and reported no issues with his stock air ride. I'm considering this route when my stock 33s are slick.

TXCOMT
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
I just read the 11 pages on the Air suspension headaches link posted above. There appear to be a custom set already made for roughly $300. Then there is the $.99 cent version which is basically plastic tubing drilled to size or the one I would l feel more comfortable with which is a build your own kit from say a Grainger store. There was a link in the lost thread to a grainger part number. It's this one but that's only for the 8MM (Which is needed for all years, but 10MM is also needed for 16 and newer versions).
That all being said I would like to make my own so what I would like is that whoever has built a complete front and rear Link kit from either Grainger/Ebay etc could post the links to every part needed.
I think this would work: Can someone that has done this let me know if these are right
10mm Ball/Socket 15mm M5 Thread

8mm Ball Socket 22mm M5 Thread


Do I need 4" Threaded rod or how long does it need to be?
Unfortunately I don't have a high enough post count to be able to have links here. Those are from grainger
Anything else I need to make my own links
Did you get your parts list? I made them and used bolt rod in-between the rod ends with a nut to secure it. I've actually been riding around with out them being "locked" in for a month now, they don't go anywhere surprisingly!


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top