Commonly asked question, No one has figured it out yet. Research link modification on this site and you will find an easy way of lifting the truck and tricking the system.anyone know if it is possible to adjust settings (or disable) the automatic lowering to the 'normal' ride height when the vehicle is traveling 25+ mph? is it possible to allow the suspension to ride at 'off road' height at faster speeds?
You could easily lower the vehicle by either buying or making your own adjustable air suspension sensor links. I made some to lift my vehicle so lowering your vehicle can be achieved. Don't know what the ride quality would be like as I don't think I have heard of anyone doing this on a Ram yet.I know this is probably a more odd question, but are there any suggestions for adjusting ride height to be LOWER. I do a lot of highway driving and wouldnt mind a lower ride. It would be pretty cool if the ENTRY height could be my AERO height for better mpg and performance handling on some roads while being able to be at full height when in the field.
I know this is probably a more odd question, but are there any suggestions for adjusting ride height to be LOWER. I do a lot of highway driving and wouldnt mind a lower ride. It would be pretty cool if the ENTRY height could be my AERO height for better mpg and performance handling on some roads while being able to be at full height when in the field.
Awesome news on the Tow Haul mode. Just bought a 2018 last night and the automatic change was annoying me. I set it off in UConnect Settings, but once turned off and then on again, reverted. Going to try this trick next. Thanks!
So that begs the question...what 35s are good to go without needing to go the override route? Seems like I remember one owner here who put the new Toyos on his Reb and reported no issues with his stock air ride. I'm considering this route when my stock 33s are slick.The rougher ride is only in Off Road mode, which I dont use. No trade off. Lifts for these are close $1000/inch for the BDS or Coil over, this is a cheap inch( really cheap if you do it Room raiders method), just enough to make room for 35's comfortably, which is all I want, I am not looking for a really high lifted truck. I know you can run some 35's on here without that inch. If I dont like this, then it takes 5 minutes to pull it out and return to stock, testing it out for a few weeks before I go in for the alignment and decide to keep them in for a while. Also, I did haul my boat yesterday like this, no issues, felt exactly the same as with OEM links.
Did you get your parts list? I made them and used bolt rod in-between the rod ends with a nut to secure it. I've actually been riding around with out them being "locked" in for a month now, they don't go anywhere surprisingly!I just read the 11 pages on the Air suspension headaches link posted above. There appear to be a custom set already made for roughly $300. Then there is the $.99 cent version which is basically plastic tubing drilled to size or the one I would l feel more comfortable with which is a build your own kit from say a Grainger store. There was a link in the lost thread to a grainger part number. It's this one but that's only for the 8MM (Which is needed for all years, but 10MM is also needed for 16 and newer versions).
That all being said I would like to make my own so what I would like is that whoever has built a complete front and rear Link kit from either Grainger/Ebay etc could post the links to every part needed.
I think this would work: Can someone that has done this let me know if these are right
10mm Ball/Socket 15mm M5 Thread
8mm Ball Socket 22mm M5 Thread
Do I need 4" Threaded rod or how long does it need to be?
Unfortunately I don't have a high enough post count to be able to have links here. Those are from grainger
Anything else I need to make my own links